BELFAST AND NORTHERN ISLAND

We are walking along a grassed tract in West Belfast.  This area, Lower Shankill, was one of the major hotspots during 'The Troubles' in Northern Ireland. 15 years ago, this would have been a no-go zone. The homes that once stood here have been cleared and the area maintains an eerie, if no longer threatening, atmosphere.

I am on a Black Taxi tour of Belfast and, Allister, our driver and guide for the afternoon, is outlining some of the key events that occurred in this area during that dark period of northern Irish history. He also explains the relationship the vivid murals painted on buildings have to those events.  

PIC: Protestant mural in the Shankil area of West Belfast.

From Shankill, we move on to the 'peace wall' - an invasive, 40 foot high wall dividing a Protestant and a Catholic area. On the wall there are memorials and (respectful) graffiti, left mostly by tourists, mainly making comment on the futility of what took place and urging all peoples against following such a path.

PIC: our Black Taxi in front of the Peace Wall

On the other side of the wall, in a Catholic area, is Bombay Street, the site of one of the more horrific and infamous incidents of the period. A memorial for those from the area who have died as a result of Northern Irish violence, since it began in 1916, serves notice of how horrific it was, especially when you read the names and ages of innocent three and four year old girls.

We proceed to the Falls Road area, still in the Catholic part of town. This is where the major Catholic murals and the Sinn Féin (considered by many to be the political arm of the Provisional IRA) headquarters are located.

It is also where Allister tells us the stories of men like Bobby Sands and Kieran Nugent and the roles they played during that period.

There are also murals showing Catholic empathy with perceived similar situations in Palestine and other parts of the world.  The bright colours of the murals contrast with their sombre messages.

PIC: mural memorialising Bobby Sands, Falls Road area

PIC: mural memorialising Kieran Nugent, Falls Road area

PIC: mural empathising with the situation in Palestine

Allister's commentary is always balanced, never favouring one side or the other. He pointedly states that, whilst there were many good people in both the Catholic and Protestant communities, the bad people on either side were just as bad as each other.

His recounting of what took place goes beyond what you'd ever be able to read in textbooks as he shares with us painfully personal tales of what he saw and felt during those times. It gives the outsider a real insight into what it was like to be a Belfaster during 'The Troubles'.

One particular thing he said that stuck is that still, to this day, whenever a car approaches from behind, he still turns to make sure the window is not coming down for a potential drive-by shooting.

Of course, these days that is out of habit rather than any real fear. Contemporary Belfast is as safe as any big city.

I could not recommend the Black Taxi tour more highly. I also feel compelled to say that at all times the tour feels educational and respectful, never venturing towards the ghoulish.

A trip to Belfast, of course, isn't just about 'The Troubles'.

Thanks, in part, to a large student community, the city now has a bustling nightlife and thriving cafe and restaurant cultures.

2012 also marks the 100^th anniversary of the launch, and sinking, of the 'RMS Titanic'. The ill-fated ship was built in Belfast, so there are plenty of Titanic sites and history to take in.

Northern Ireland, also, is not just about Belfast. It is also home to some of the most stunning landscapes and unique natural features in the world.

Less than two hours drive from Belfast lies The Giant's Causeway, a rock formation unlike anything else on earth.

PIC: The Giant's Causeway

Geologists write that it was formed 50 million years ago by volcanic activity, however, colourful locals will only too happily regale you with one or two far-fetched, amusing tales about how it was built by an Irish giant named Finn McCool.

Whichever version of events you choose to believe, one thing remains certain: it is one of the most incredible pieces of scenery anywhere in the world.

Carrick-a-Rede is another scenic gem. With sincere apologies to the Republic's Dingle Peninsula, Carrick-a-Rede was, to my eye, the most pristine and classic example of Irish coastal scenery.

PIC: the view from Carrick-a-Rede

With 'The Troubles' now in the past, Belfast and Northern Ireland are more accessible than ever, making the northern part of the island an exceptionally attractive destination.